Best Intermediate Bouldering Shoes for indoors 2023

Looking for a new intermediate climbing shoe, specifically for indoor bouldering? This 2023 Buyers Guide will help you find the best intermediate boulder shoes tailored for modern bouldering gyms.

Why purchase an intermediate boulder shoe?

Intermediate boulder shoes sit right between beginner and performance shoes. I would describe them as ‘comfortable performance shoes’. They might not be as aggressive, but they have a more comfortable instep while still aiming for performance.

These shoes are the follow-up to your beginner shoes. Being more comfortable and cheaper, these are also frequently used as training shoes by advanced boulderers. So whether you are a casual climber or an expert one, it wouldn’t hurt to have a good pair of intermediate indoor boulder shoes.

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7 Best gym bouldering shoes for Intermediate climbers

The La Sportiva Kubo may not be the most aggressive shoe on this list, but it’s certainly one of the most comfortable. This amazing gym climbing shoe boasts a soft yet supportive split sole, a slight downturn, and a solid heel making it perfect for intermediate climbers looking to up their game from a beginner model without sacrificing much comfort.

Coming in at a great price point, the Kubo still features some of La Sportiva’s great technology such as the P3 randing which keeps the downturn in place over time, and Vibram XS Edge rubber on the men’s model and sticky XS Grip 2 rubber on the women’s model.

You won’t regret choosing the LaSpo Kubo as your go-to intermediate boulder shoe or training shoe for indoor bouldering. Based on price, comfortability, built quality, and performance this shoe lands in the #1 spot for our top intermediate bouldering shoe.

Men vs Women’s model

La Sportiva uses the same last on the Men’s and Women’s models of their shoes. With the Kubo, the difference lies in the rubber that is used for either model and how soft the midsole is. The women’s model is better for modern bouldering with its softer, stickier XS Grip 2 rubber. While the men’s model will perform better at edging small footholds.

👉 Why gender doesn’t matter in climbing shoes

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In comparison to the Kubo, the Scarpa Vapor V is a more aggressive bouldering shoe that offers greater stiffness due to its 1.4mm midsole. This added stiffness allows it to excel at edging small footholds and overhung terrain. However, when it comes to smearing on large volumes and holds in modern bouldering gyms, it falls slightly behind.

But don’t let that detract from its overall performance. The Scarpa Vapor V is a true all-around monster that can handle not only indoor and outdoor bouldering but also sport climbing. While the Kubo is primarily designed for modern bouldering, the Vapor V offers versatility and can be relied upon to deliver great results across different climbing disciplines. That’s why it definitely deserves a spot on the list of the best intermediate bouldering shoes for indoors in 2023.

Men vs Women’s model

The Vapor V women’s model features a narrower last that is better suited to lower volume feet, compared to the men’s version.

In addition, there’s a difference in the rubber used in the two models. The women’s Vapor V comes with XS Grip 2 rubber, while the men’s version uses XS Edge compound.

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I describe the La Sportiva Skwama as a comfortable performance shoe, and an uncomfortable intermediate shoe. Nonetheless, it’s a top-performing shoe that’s well worth the investment.

With its super soft rubber and aggressive profile, this shoe is ideal for smearing but also edges well thanks to its small midsole. It’s versatile enough to excel at both indoor bouldering, whether you’re facing classic or modern problems, and outdoor climbing.

It also features a split sole, a sizeable toe patch, and a solid heel, ensuring you have all the support you need to tackle the toughest boulder problems. Despite its aggressive profile, the Skwama is comfortable thanks to its unlined leather and roomy toe box. It does stretch quite a bit, so be sure to size accordingly.

If you are looking for a high-performance shoe that can take your bouldering to the next level, the La Sportiva Skwama is an excellent choice.

Men vs Women’s model

While La Sportiva usually doesn’t change the last for the men’s and women’s models, that is exactly what they did on the Skwama. The women’s Skwama is lower in volume, especially in the heel than the men’s Skwama. Other than that, the specs remain the same.

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If you’re looking for a budget-friendly gym climbing slipper, Mad Rock’s Remora is a great option to consider. However, it’s important to note that this shoe is best suited for training on modern bouldering problems, and not much else. The Remora lacks a midsole, making it an excellent choice for developing strong toe strength needed for edging.

In addition to its midsole-less design, the Remora features a large toe patch, a solid heel, and a moderately aggressive downturn. All of these features combined make it a great option for anyone looking for a training shoe for modern bouldering, without having to spend a lot of money on a more expensive option like the La Sportiva Theory, Futura, or Mantra.

While the Remora is a great training shoe, it’s not recommended to use it as your main climbing shoe. It’s better suited as a secondary pair for training purposes. Additionally, it’s not the best choice for newer climbers without strong feet, as the lack of midsole may make it more difficult to use effectively.

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Thanks to its super sticky TRAX SAS rubber, the Evolv Zenist is an absolute smearing monster. On paper, this shoe isn’t that soft with a 4.2mm outsole and 1mm midsole but that changes as soon as you put them on. They are definitely very very soft.

Although I have limited experience with the Zenist, having only briefly tested them during a demo, I was thoroughly impressed with their performance. They felt great straight out of the box, and the rubber provided excellent grip.

These shoes are particularly well-suited for modern indoor bouldering problems, where their softness and smearing capabilities truly shine. If you primarily boulder indoors in modern gyms, I would highly recommend considering the Zenist as an intermediate-level shoe. They would also make a great option for competition climbing, where every bit of performance counts.

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Looking for a versatile shoe that can handle any boulder problem thrown your way? Look no further than the Scarpa Instinct VSR, the shoe that’s got you covered like a crash pad. This all-around climbing shoe is designed for intermediate climbers and can help you smear on big volumes, edge small footholds, and performs on overhang terrain.

But the Instinct VSR isn’t just an indoor shoe; it’s also great for outdoor bouldering and can even handle sport routes. Definitely not a one-trick!

If you’re on the hunt for a shoe that can do it all, the Instinct VSR is the answer to your prayers. Just don’t blame us if you start sending like a pro and have to upgrade to a harder grade.

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La Sportiva’s new Tarantula Boulder is a great bouldering shoe designed with beginners in mind but has intermediate features & specs.

With an improved heel, the addition of a toe patch, softer rubber, and a split sole this revamp of the beloved Tarantula could be a great training shoe or upgrade for beginners coming from a flat shoe.

It’s a great comfort pick for those looking to get into more performance-oriented shoes without going too aggressive by opting for a Scarpa Instinct VSR or La Sportiva Skwama. Furthermore, it’s also a great training shoe for advanced climbers looking for a comfortable gym shoe.

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We’ll finish this article off with the ultimate budget pick for an intermediate boulder shoe: The Mad Rock Rover.

I’ve seen this shoe on the feet of some of the most respected climbers at my gym for one reason: it’s super cheap! It might not be the best smearer, edger, or hooker on this list, but it will get the job done.

Great as a training shoe, but also a good pick for newer climbers looking for their second pair or casuals who don’t want to spend a ton of money.

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What should you look for in an intermediate boulder shoe?

Most climbers shopping for intermediate boulder shoes are looking for an upgrade to their beginner shoes. It’s probable that your beginner shoes were flat, symmetrical, and quite stiff. That’s what you’ll want to change when opting for an intermediate model.

You should aim to get something that has a split sole, slight or moderate downturn, and soft rubber but is still relatively comfortable. The models listed above have been carefully selected with those elements in mind.

Here are some articles that will help you make the right decisions:

• Anatomy of a climbing shoe – covers all the different specs and teaches you everything you need to know about climbing shoe anatomy
• Soft vs Stiff climbing shoes – covers the importance of rubber in a climbing shoe
• Men vs Women climbing shoes – explains why men can wear women’s shoes and vice versa
• How tight should climbing shoes be? – covers why climbers size their shoes so snugly
• Should you wear socks in climbing shoes? – explains why socks should be avoided in climbing shoes

Wrap Up

Hopefully, this 2023 Buyers Guide helped you pick an intermediate bouldering shoe for indoor bouldering. Each of the covered models will make an excellent choice and help you progress your bouldering grades! If there are any questions regarding to sizing and fits, or the specs of any of the mentioned shoes, ask them below and I’ll get back to you.